Protein overload vs. moisture overload: how to tell

Hair that suddenly misbehaves usually has too much of something. The two usual suspects are protein and moisture.

Signs your hair needs more protein

• It feels mushy or gummy when wet.
• Curls won't hold and fall flat by midday.
• It stretches a lot when wet and doesn't bounce back.
• It frizzes even when wet, and breaks easily.
• You've had recent bleach, color, heat, or lots of swimming.

Signs of protein overload

• Your hair feels stiff, crunchy, or straw-like.
• It snaps instead of stretching.
• It tangles more than usual and looks dull.

How to fix protein overload

Rinse well, then use a clarifying shampoo to remove protein build-up. Follow with a protein-free deep conditioner. For the next few washes, check labels and skip products with hydrolyzed proteins, keratin, silk, rice, or amino acids.

How to fix moisture overload

Add a protein treatment, or switch one product to a version with hydrolyzed protein. Fine and high porosity hair usually wants protein more often; coarse and low porosity hair usually needs it less.

Find your balance

Most people do best alternating: moisture most of the time, protein on a schedule that fits their hair. Keep notes for a few weeks. The pattern usually shows up quickly.